By Asya Draganova
A lot of people have told me they find the west coast of England the most picturesque, idyllic and inspirational part of the country… but is it so?
I would like to take you to Weymouth: a small town situated on the English channel coast, in the county of Dorset. The town’s interesting name means ‘mouth of the River Wey’. Hopefully, within the shell of images and words of which my story consists, you will find a scent of breeze, a handful white sand, and a feeling for the beauty of Weymouth.
The first thing you will notice when entering the town, would probably be a white chalk figure on the side of the highest of a chain of hills. The magnificent figure depicts King George III arriving into Weymouth. Matthew, whose family live here, hence why he visits the town as often as possible, told me the sad story of the man, who constructed the chalk memorial. The builder made a mistake, and the figure looks as if George III is leaving, and not entering Weymouth. Ashamed and bullied, the builder of the memorial killed himself.
Matthew told me that the reason why George III is such an important figure for Weymouth is that the King used to visit the town every year because he was convinced that the sea water there was healing. The King’s so called ‘swimming machine’ is put next to George III ‘s statue in the centre of town.
The ‘swimming machine’ is a carriage with no windows in which the King used to be pulled by horses into the shallow waters of the sea. He did not want to be seen by a lot of people, so in the floor of the carriage there is a hole through which the King used to get out of the carriage for a swim and then come back.
It is not hard to believe that there is something magical and healing about the sea by Weymouth. Sergeant Terry Martin, who used to be in the British army, was born and still lives here, told me that the sea is so calm and clear by Weymouth, because there are no currents reaching the bay, and only tides move the waters.
In 2012 all the sailing competitions for the Olympic games will take place here because of the great conditions for water sports.
However, not everything about Weymouth is sunny and bright. Terry told me that the Black Death which severely affected the country in 17th century started from here. Weymouth was, and still is, a very important port and diseases from far away lands were easily transmitted by ships in the past.
Terry also told me about the Nothe Fort – a castle on the shore of Weymouth bay. It was built during the Napoleonic wars but was never used because Weymouth never got attacked.
During World War II big gun stations were placed there and can still be seen. Fortunately, Weymouth remained safe and not attacked once again. Matthew added that the architecture of the Nothe Fort with its white walls imitates cliffs and atop the Fort lies a layer of grass, so that the enemies coming into Weymouth do not expect an attack.
The most emotional story Terry told me about Weymouth is from the years of World War II. He used to deliver newspapers to the soldiers at the Nothe Fort; in return, they used to give him a sausage or a bacon sandwich, and those things were hard to find during the war. Terry woke up early every morning with great enthusiasm: “I was a mean and very very hungry small boy!” he says.
During my last visit in Weymouth I visited the nature reserve Radipole. The water there has some specific qualities which make it provide good conditions for rare species of birds. Unusual plants grow by the shores of Radipole, and Terry told me that in the past those were used for building roofs of cottages.
Weymouth is famous for the Carnival which has been taking place there on the third Wednesday of August every year for the last 60 years. The celebrations, however, continue for a whole least a week, people say. The main day of the Carnival – Wednesday – is finished by a firework show set off from Weymouth bay. Matthew recalls how one year the boat setting off the fireworks inadvertently caught fire creating a beautiful but somewhat scary spectacle.
I have never had the chance to visit the town for the festival, but I am intrigued by the stories about the town enlightened by music and dances, the impressive display of the Red Arrows – the Royal Air Force’s elite, and the thousands of tourists filling the streets of Weymouth.
The sand of Weymouth’s seashore is very good for sculpturing. Scultures have been built and shown on the beach every year since the end of 19th century. In the last few decades Mark Anderson has been the main sculptor creating works of art on the beach of Weymouth. At the moment he is constructing figures representing the characters from Tim Burton’s film version of ‘Alice in Wonderland’. Mark is sponsored by visitors and citizens of the town who leave money by his sand sculptures.
I find that Weymouth tends to be always noisy and lively. There is music coming from somewhere at all times, people on the streets and on the beach, a feeling of constant celebration of life and youth. Weymouth offers very good night life but that holds a dark side to the contemporary town.
Phill, who graduated from university last year and now works in a popular pub in Weymouth, reacted to my request for him to tell me a story about the town in the following way: “Can it be about drugs, booze and girls? I still remember the first time I took ecstasy there – on the other side of the harbour. I was in some trouble for a while but…oh, well, this is Weymouth.”
The two wings of Weymouth bay are worth to be mentioned. Standing on the beach you would see the Riviera on the left hand side– a big hotel with sports complexes and restaurants. The view on Weymouth from the Riviera is beautiful, especially at night.
However, the right side of Weymouth bay is even more exciting. Matt told me that Portland was originally an island, however, a big storm formed a bridge of sand and mud. It is called Chesil and through it Portland got attached to the land. The view from Portland on Weymouth on one side, and Chesil beach on the other side of the ‘bridge’, is unforgettable.
Karl, who lives in Weymouth and works in Portland prison, was happy to rediscover the aerial view while he was showing me around. He said he had got used to the place, although it appears to be so extraordinary to its visitors.
To me Weymouth is the place where something new and special happens every time I am there. For example, two nights ago I saw a meteor shower for the first time! And it is always hard to leave Weymouth. So when it comes to my last night there, I stand on the beach and wish to go back. As soon as possible.
Pictures by Asya Draganova
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